Cadence- A Granny Square Crop Top

Cadence- Peacock Granny Square Crop Top. Free Crochet Pattern. OceansOriginals
Hi my fellow crocheters. So today, I have a pattern for a beautiful granny square crop top. It can be worn as a festival top, a beachy top, a regular crochet top (maybe with a cute sweater?). It’s beautiful I think. It’s also the first real granny square I’ve ever done (after learning the correct way to do granny squares). I know I did a wall hanging post before, but that was just by sight rather than correct stitch count. (I may have to review that). Anyway, let’s get into the pattern. 
I used a size 3 thread in 5 different colors : white, purple, blue, green and pink. (Peacock colors I guess- but I think different shades of blue would give this a real beachy vibe. Whatever you choose to do, the possibilities are endless)

I also switched the coloring for each square so no 2 square was the same in terms of color pattern. I like the way it turned out but you can always do whatever you feel.
You can use Aunt Lydia crochet thread size 3
DMC Crochet cotton size 3
Any size 3 thread.
Hook size can be 3mm or 3.5mm (I used the 3 for a tighter stitch)
Pattern is written in US terms
(This is a pattern for a B- cup with the granny square band measuring 25.5 inches- but I will leave some tips- black text, for different sizes and you can always send me a message if you run into any problems. I’m happy to help as you will be helping me improve the pattern for other crocheters.)
P.S. As I’ve said, this is a B cup with a band of  25.5 inches so depending on your cup size, follow the instructions for the cups. With regard to the band, go on ahead and measure below the bust line (I am 29 inches), leaving a few inches, as the top is laced up to close. Depending on your size, you may need to omit or add square when working the pattern. That’s how simple it is to make adjustments for smaller/bigger sizes. 
Create a magic circle
R1: 12DC
R2: ~2DC (in DC of previous row), chain 1~ 12 times.
R3: ~3DCtog (in chain 1 space), chain 2~ 12 times
R4: ~4DC (in chain 2 space)~ 12 times
Time to turn the circle into a granny square.
R5: ~3HDC (between group of 4DC from previous round), chain 1, 3HDC (between group of 4DC from previous round), chain 1, *3DC chain 1, 3DC, chain 1–between group of 4DC from previous round* ~ 4 times.
Make 8 of these and join at the sides using SC (17SC)
 Cadence- Peacock Granny Square Crop Top. Free Crochet Pattern. OceansOriginals
Ok so this is where it gets a little tricky.  
For R3 in this section, we need groups of 5+3.
What you can do is: instead of doing 4 rows of SC/HDC on either side like it says below, Do 4 rows on 1 side and 3 on the other.
OR you can do what I did–I omitted the chain 3 that I used as the 1st DC in R2 (because maths failed me when I was designing this)
**At the width of  the 8 joined squares, do 4 rows of HDC on either side. On the 4th row 2HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 1HDC
Now here’s an example for a smaller size..
Perhaps when you measured, you were 26 inches, so you might want to make 6 squares which will give you 102SC (17 x 6). As I mentioned before, we need groups of 5+3 so what you can do is:
At the width of  the 6 joined squares, do 2 rows of HDC on either side. On the 3rd row 2HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 1HDC
For a larger size,
An example being a measurement of 36 inches, you may want to do 10 squares which will give you 170 (17 x 10). Again, we need groups of 5+3, and while its easy to just add 3 because the 170 is already a multiple of 5, I’m going to advice, using 8 (who would have thought all this math would come into play??)
At the width of  the 6 joined squares, do 3 rows of HDC on either side. On the 4th row 2HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 4HDC, chain 2, 1HDC. It’s actually really quite simple to figure out, it’s easy math, but if you do have any problems, again, feel free to send me a message. 
R1: SC along the length of the joined squares. (17x 8 + 4+ 3= 143SC or like I said before, omit the chain 3 when doing R3– in that case, 17×8 + 4 + 4= 144SC)
R2: DC along the entire row
R3: 3DC in 1st stitch, skip 2 stitches, 3DC, skip 2. Continue til the end of the row.
Fasten off.
Repeat R2 and R3 at the bottom of the squares. and do another row of DC.
Fasten off.


Loosely chain 19
R1: DC in 5th chain from hook (this counts as the 1st DC), DC in each chain, placing 3DC in last chain (18DC). Chain 1, 3DC in the 1st chain (other side of the chain 19- the “v” loops) DC along. (18DC, chain 1, 18DC)
R2-9: chain 3 (counts as the 1st DC of the row), turn. DC along (into DC of previous row), *2 DC chain 1, 2 DC* in chain 1 space (from previous row) DC until end of row.
R10: ~3DC in 1 stitch, skip 2~ 11 times. 3DC in next stitch, chain 1, 3DC on next stitch (on other side of cup). ~skip 2 stitch, 3DC in next stitch~ 11 times. (for different sizes, maintain the same pattern but remember the entire row will be 2 more than the previous row, separated by the chain- eg for a small 3DC, skip 2, 3DC til the top and 2DC in chain space from previous row)
R11: Chain 5, (acts as 1 DC, chain 2) ~3DC between 3DCs from previous row~ 4times. (maybe 3 times for a smaller size, 5 times for a larger one- your preference)
Fasten off.
  • R2: 20DC, chain 1, 20 DC
  • R9: 34DC, chain 1, 34DC
  • R10: 12 groups of 3DC, chain 1,  12 groups of 3DC
  • R11: 1DC, chain 2, 4 groups of 3DC
Make 2 cups and join them by SC at R10 (15SC)
For a small cup, work R1, R2-7. For the 8th and 9th row, work R10 and R11. 
  • R2: 20DC, chain 1, 20 DC
  • R7: 30DC, chain 1, 30DC
  • R8: 10 groups of 3DC, 2DC, chain 1, 2DC, 10 groups of 3DC
  • R9: 1DC, chain 2, 3 groups of 3DC
For a large cup, work R1, R2-11. For the 12th and 13th row, work R10 and R11 (this may turn out quite tall, so maybe you can work up to 12 rows by working R2-10 instead of an 11th row- measure against yourself as you go)
  • R2: 20DC, chain 1, 20 DC
  • R11: 38DC, chain 1, 38DC
  • R12: 13 groups of 3DC, DC, chain 1, DC, 13 groups of 3DC
  • R13: 1DC, chain 2, 5 groups of 3DC   OR
  • R2: 20DC, chain 1, 20 DC
  • R10: 36DC, chain 1, 36DC
  • R11: 12 groups of 3DC, 2DC, chain 1, 2DC, 12 groups of 3DC
  • R12: 1DC, chain 2, 5 groups of 3DC
Placing stitch markers on the 30th stitch of the granny square length (top side) or the 10th cluster of 3DC, attach the cups to the granny squares, (placing 2SC in each DC). (find the middle if you have a different size)
TIP: I usually use paper clips or hair pins as stitch markers but here’s a post by Katie of Creating Time for a super cute DIY stitch marker project.
Continue to SC alongside the granny square length here and all around to the other side placing stitch markers at 1st SC made at the top of the granny square length*** (I guess this is a bit confusing so here’s a messy diagram explaining) 
(I made the mistake of fastening off here but its so much easier to just work the piece in continuance).
Don’t forget to place 2SC in your chain 2 spaces**


When you get to the corner at the cups and the length of granny square, do 5DC in the space between a 3DC cluster and 1SC in the next cluster space. Repeat this to the top of the cup (Should have 6 shells).
We are going to add the straps here. Now you can make this top into a strapped one chaining the length required to give a precised fit  and then slip stitching it to the back of the top when we slip stitch around the piece (I think that’s too much work- I always end up frogging because the strap turns out too long) or you can make it into a halter which is the easier way and its still cute.
Chain 100 and HDC along the chain. Slip stitch into the SC.
~5DC in Space between 3DC cluster, SC in next cluster~ 4times
2SC in the horizontal DC of R11 of the cups, 1SC in the joining of the cups, and 2SC in the DC of the next cup. (5SC in the centre)
~SC in 3DC cluster space, 5DC in next~ 4 times. SC, chain 100, HDC along, slip stitch into SC.
~5DC in cluster (other side of the cup), SC in next cluster~ 5 times, 5DC in next cluster.
Slip stitch to to end of the granny square length.
Chain 150 or desired length in the space where the stitch marker is*** (we are going to use this to lace up the back of the top). HDC along and slip stitch into the same stitch.
Slip stitch to the bottom of the granny squares.
At the bottom of the squares, do 2slip stitches, or 2SC  ~skip 2stitches, 5DC in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next~ Repeat til the end of the row. 2slip stitches in the last 2DC
This part is worked in groups of 7+6
For a small size we would have 108DC if we used 6 granny squares, do 2 slip stitchesor 2SC ~skip 2stitches, 5DC in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next~ Repeat til the end of the row. 2 slip stitches in the last 2DC.
For a large size we would have 178DC if we used 10 granny squares, do 2 slip stitches or 2SC~skip 2stitches, 5DC in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next~ Repeat til the end of the row. 2 slip stitches in the last 2DC.
Slip stitch til the top of the granny squares, chain 150 or desired length in the stitch marker space***, HDC along. Slip stitch into the same stitch and continue to slip stitch until you get to the corner of the cups and the granny square length.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
I hope this pattern was easy to follow along and I appreciate any feedback.
Please use #oceansoriginals if you use this pattern and please follow me on Instagram



DISCLAMER: My free patterns are untested, so if you run into any problems, send me a message and I will be happy to help 🙂
ALL patterns are copyright© protected and cannot be copied, duplicated or reproduced in any way, however, you are permitted to sell any item made from the pattern, on a small scale, as long as “OCEANSORIGINALS” is credited. If pattern is to be used for large-scale commercial, purposes, you are to get approval by me, “OCEANSORIGINALS” and give credit where it is due.
Text and images Copyright© 2017 by OceansOriginals, all rights reserved.






10 thoughts on “Cadence- A Granny Square Crop Top

      • Kelley says:

        Is that the one that looks like an actual cup? I have 2 pieces in those (if that’s what you are talking about– a couple rows and then you increase at the corner and then down the rows?) I like those but I’ve yet to figure out different sizes.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Tami says:

        I start in the middle and go to where the armpit is then turn my work and do decreases on either each row or every other row to make a triangle shape. Then I do the same thing on the other side. Then I usually go over both sides with a decorative border and snug up the front a little more. I’m still more or less guessing on the sizing too. LOL

        Liked by 1 person

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